Discovering Riviera Nayarit Naturally
Birds abound and flock to La Tovara National Park. The sanctuary on Mexico’s Pacific coast of Riviera Nayarit and other prime havens in the area are home to the largest concentration of birds in Mexico. They are attracted by an almost perfect combination of climate and environs, mangrove swamps, estuaries and lagoons. The location along the western flyway is an ecosystem that provides a variety of habitats and abundant food sources for birds and other wildlife. The preserve is a wonderland of water trails traversing dense vegetation and almost impenetrable tangles multiple species of mangroves, some arching over waterways to create cavernous channels through verdant vegetation.
Local guide Chencho (aka Jose Inocencio Banuelos) skippered the motorized small boat (panga) on some of La Tovara’s sixty miles of water channels, up the Rio San Cristóbal and on a waterway system that traverses through mangrove swamps teeming with flora and fauna. There are turtles, crocodiles and other reptiles but what makes the area most intriguing are the birds. Even though this visit was not during peak season, the five hour float trip into La Tovara yielded sitings of crocodiles, turtles, and sixty plus avian species including: Curve and Smooth Billed Anis; Social and Tropical Flycatchers; Short Billed Hawk; Snail Kite; Potto; Red-faced and Yellow-winged Kiskadees; Great, Green, Little Blue, Tiger, Red-Beaked, Yellow-Crowned, and Boat-Billed Herons; Limpkin; Osprey; Rufus Necked Wood Rail; Red Crested Lineal Woodpecker; and Wood Stork, to name some. October-March is best for birding in the area is, peak is January when up 300 species inhabit the park.
We spoke different native languages but communication was not problem given our shared passion, appreciation and understanding of birds and nature. As a professor of ornithology, I have led many birding trips worldwide while Chencho has done even more in La Tovara. The exploration moved slowly amid the thick growth enabling stunning close encounters- cacique songbirds’ sock like nests dangling overhead from Mariposa trees, a Potoo perched on a low hanging branch close enough to touch, and crocodiles sunning on logs a few feet from the boat while the whisps of flight and splashes of water created by the wading, swimming, roosting and winging passersby combined to serve up a continuum of sensory stimulation.
The brilliant sunset and scintillating, surreal day to night transmogrification stunning. The brilliant red/orange hues of a crepuscular sky combined with the cacophony from rousted flocks of herons as dark fell was an extraordinary and cosmic immersion into nature. After dark a powerful spotlight was employed to navigate an intricate and lengthy return to the dock. The luminous reflection from the ceiling of leaves that mirrored off the water below made it difficult to determine up or down, in essence a psychedelic effect was created. The adventure filled with so many wonderful sightings and moments of nature weaving its magic left me in a state of euphoria that lingered for days. That night, back at hotel during a late night dinner at El Delfin I was almost speechless, seemingly stunned by what had been experienced.
The towns of San Blas, Tecuitata, La Palma, Le Bajada, Paraje Del Ray, Singayata offer land, island and water trails for observing a multitude of birds. The area is also prized for some less than common birds: Citreoline Trogon, Colima Pygmy-Owl, Elegant Quail, Golden-cheeked Woodpecker, Mexican Parrotlet, Russet-crowned Motmot, San Blas Jay, and Sinaloa Wren. There are twenty beaches and also a bounty of marine life including whales and other marine mammals. Matanchen Bay is well known for its exceptional surf break and long rideable waves.
The fishing village of San Blas is a destination surrounded by nature. It has maintained a population of 10,000 and changed little over time while preserving a friendly, small town feel. San Blas makes an ideal base from which to explore. The quaint and charming in town Garza Canela Hotel and its El Delfin Restaurant are gems. They provided a peaceful and comfortable stay, offered a tasty lineup of culinary delights, a rich resource of information, pleasant conversation and good company. The Vasquez family (Sisters Betty, Doris, Diana, Josefina; brother Hector; and mother Dora) operate the property with an unmistakable love of people, family, hospitality and food. Internationally renowned Chef Betty, trained at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, is the food ambassador of Nayarit.
The month-long Riviera Nayarit coastal trip from Punta Mita to San Blas was off the beaten path. It became a meandering loosely plotted journey along Route 200, onto secondary paved roads and over many dirt byways. There were days that called for finding alternative, circuitous routes on jungle pathways or by water to reach intended isolated destinations. The heavy-duty, 4WD Jeep, on board beach chairs, umbrella, boogie boards, soft cooler filled with provisions, and machete repeatedly proved to be essential assets. The search for habitats rich in birds and other wildlife (estuaries, mangrove swamps, rivers, marshes), secluded beaches, out-of-the-way villages, boutique hotels, street markets, and waterfront towns was a cathartic, peaceful and joyous time of discovery.
Some of the nature hot spots visited along the route were out of the way but well worth the time and energy getting there. Approaching the fishing village of Chacala songbirds perched on wires, vultures and hawks soaring above, and coatis crossing the rural country road greeted arrival. A small marina in Chacala is home to a flotilla of canopied boats (pangas) where resident local captains offer coastal explorations, as well as fishing and surfing trips. Motoring south took us to a picturesque cove with underwater volcanic caves at Las Cuevas Beach; and a lovely 7-mile stretch of isolated beaches at Playa Boca de Naranjo in Lima de Abajo and El Capomo that were closed to public auto traffic. Access by boat is possible but landing can be tricky with waves, winds and tides. Cruising just off shore provided engaging observations with brown pelicans diving, cormorants crowding rock outcroppings, terns foraging in the surf, and soaking in this captivating natural slice of paradise.
The rambling driving route from Rincon de Guayabitos to Playas Las Tortugas on secondary paved roadways pass through Las Varas, Zacualpan, San Isidro and Ixtapa. Traditional lifestyles are showcased in these towns, villages and at roadside stands where fresh fruits, vegetables, drinks, cooked and baked goods are sold, and amid fields where tobacco, papaya, mango, pineapple and other native crops are grown. The five-mile long dirt access road off the black top is a scenic ride surrounded by neatly cultivated working fields where a variety of songbirds and birds of prey flitted amongst vegetation to feed and perch on overhead wires.
Playas Las Tortugas (Turtle Beach) is an alluring, secluded ten-mile expanse of sandy shore adjacent to a former coconut plantation. The northern end fronts a gated community of sixteen spacious, traditionally Mexican and Mediterranean styled, architecturally designed homes. Many available for rent offer resort style amenities and services. The upscale development is shared by a biologist staffed endangered sea turtle conservation center. Guests can participate in the preservation program and explore the protected ecological mangrove estuary where a variety of turtles, crocodiles, birds and unspoiled nature thrives.
Up the coast a bit north is the scenic beach cove at Platanitos where gently rolling waves, a calm swimming area and a lineup of palapa restaurants can be found. Vista Encantada Restaurant sits on a hill, just off the paved road overlooking the beach and village. The Robalo prepared zarendeado style and cooked over a mesquite open-fired grill by Chef Chona was flat out mouthwatering, melt-in-your-mouth delicious. Repeat visits offered consistently enjoyable setting, service, food and margaritas. Just past the lineup of palapa beach restaurants is an uphill dirt road leading to El Custodio, another private enclave of sixteen charming, custom designed homes. The lush natural and planted vegetation creates privacy and a seductive tropical ambiance. Some are available for rent with meals and house keeping. The enclave occupies the opposite shore of the same estuary shared with and adjacent to Playas Las Tortugas. Walking, swimming or paddling the estuary takes 20 minutes from one side to the other. It is A 35 minute drive by car.
Riviera Nayarit is changing. Fonatur, Mexico’s national trust for the promotion of tourism, has been developing coastal property since 2000. The government led initiative to create new towns, beach resorts, boutique hotels and golf courses along the coastline continues, and is now seen at El Monteon, Los Ayala, Punta Raza, Boca de Naranjo, Lima de Abajo, El Divisadero, and El Capomo. Nevertheless land has been preserved, especially in and around San Blas, where easily accessible prime habitats for birds, wildlife and pure nature are available with comfortable lodging and delicious cuisine close by.
Although Punta Mita to San Blas is 100 miles or so and can be driven in three plus hours, this peregrination took us three plus weeks. Travel throughout Nayarit over the years has always been pleasant, but none has been a richer more in-depth immersion into nature than this trip. Despite the changes, the region still abounds in authentic culture, brilliant sunsets, beautiful beaches, plentiful wildlife, and unspoiled communities under a backdrop of the Sierra Madres with a history dating back to the Aztecs.
Bill Nestor explores the world to write about Travel, Food, Nature, Golf, Lifestyles
